Welcome back and bienvenue to new subscribers – it’s a Friday, excuses, one day late this week - it’s lovely to have you here!

Let’s begin : )

Alethea x

Autumn is undecided here. We’ve returned to Summer temperatures only now wrapped in that special golden Autumn light. It’s a beautiful time of year, even if other seasonal distractions mean my daily walks with Romy involve a lot more human-dog chat: “no, don’t eat that”. The blackberries she adored are long gone so she’s taken to foraging from a new and stinky menu of wildlife droppings and leftover muck-spreading morsels. My new daily phrase: “Arrête! It’s a walk, not a buffet!” Obviously, I am ignored.

Meanwhile, in the wider world, the French government is, how shall I put this, in disarray once again. Too kind?! Add to that the annual avalanche of tax fonciere bills and end of year impots and there’s been plenty of reason for reflection on the realities of France’s dire fiscal landscape 🤦‍♀

As a newcomer, I’m still navigating the intricacies of French bureaucracy and just when I feel ‘I’ve finally got it’ another layer reveals itself. I’ve found it far more complicated emigrating to France than I did to the Netherlands. The Netherlands felt straightforward (much like that direct Dutch national stereotype!) with clear systems, slick apps and easy digital access. Here in France, while you will most definitely find a government department or business philosophy clearly outlined on their website, the practical aspects can be maddeningly convoluted. I’ve discovered phone calls or in person questions are by far the more effective option with nearly everything.

Where France does do well, though, is healthcare. Even before my Carte Vitale arrived (a year after applying), general doctor’s (GP, huisarts) appointments were quick and surprisingly inexpensive. When as a new French resident, that little green and yellow card finally arrives, it does feel like a milestone. I like the transparency of the system and feel that it reinforces the value of paying for healthcare without creating unaffordable barriers.

With both the Netherlands and France known for higher tax burdens, I’ve not faced the shock of say, someone emigrating here from Dubai. Yet, as a self-employed individual without children, outside of societal contributions, infrastructure etc the place I feel my tax contributions most tangibly is in healthcare. This is where bureaucratic, fonctionnaire-heavy, France has been a revelation.

This is the land of pharmacies in every village, and (cue another national stereotype…) a population with a slight reputation for hypochondria! While it’s certainly not perfect, perhaps it shouldn’t be a surprise that the healthcare system is as comprehensive as it is. It’s rare to exit any appointment without a long ordonnance, and huge bag of muti (medical and holistic) from the pharmacy.

Now, with the combination of Carte Vitale and Mutuelle (the recommended top-up insurance) it’s rare that I have any additional medical costs (in France at least) outside of my tax and additional contributions and if I do, they tend to be reimbursed quickly and automatically. Seemingly the aberration to all other French bureaucracy that I’ve encountered so far!

Boringly, I’ve spent too much time in hospitals this year mostly related to the fallout of the traumatic brain injury. Tedious and frustrating as it’s been I’ve been super impressed by the healthcare teams I’ve encountered here, even in what is technically one of France’s ‘medical deserts.’ (The desert part is unfortunately one reason I have to travel for the neurologist, so it’s not perfect but that aside…) You still need to advocate for yourself, as anywhere, but compared what I’ve been used to, that classic Dutch prescription of: “take two paracetamol and come back in two weeks” even when your leg is falling off, it’s been a refreshing change.

Ps - I feel I should caveat this whole bit with ‘not a doctor, not a politician, not an expert’! Just my observations as a newcomer with a dog who thinks walks are buffets!  

La Petite Maison is available for Autumn vacation rentals until mid November 2025. Between late November and March, it is available for longer term rentals by direct arrangement - so if you or someone you know is house-hunting, needs some peace to write or fancies a few week’s quiet - do get in touch via this email : ) 

Apparently, it’s one of the most loved homes available for rental on Airbnb 😄 )

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It’s not possible to encompass all the things I want to share about this renovation in one snapshot, hence this little series…!

Our predecessors knew a thing or two about keeping cool. With deep stone walls, up to a metre deep in places, the house gallantly maintains steady interior temperatures against the Southern sun. Given heat is the main concern for most of the year, this works marvellously with the lower floors remaining cool whilst canicules rage outside.

Winter, as I soon discovered, was another story. Shuttered, uninhabited, and sitting idle whilst I was back in Den Haag, the house settled into its own rocky-induced chill. With no one to coax it into warmth, the interior temperatures would drop to a shiver inducing three degrees. Niet gezellig! 

Fortunately, during our Den Haag / Les P Winter shuttle days, a kind neighbour would turn the creaking old central heating system on a few days before our arrival. This would limp the house up to a more manageable 18 degrees by the time we crossed the threshold. 

That old gas central heating system dd not extend to every floor or reach every corner, so fires remained the backbone of Winter heating. Or rather, should have been.

The large Scandinavian-style closed fire in the living room looked promising and as if it was a leader in the heat-emanating business, with plenty of heat radiating panels. Lighting it for the first time proved underwhelming. Technically, it worked, flames crackled but the heat seemed to escape straight up the chimney. After several attempts, I abandoned it, cocooned myself in blankets in the one armchair pre-sofa arrival and made a mental note: add replacement woodburner to the list.

The list was an ever-expanding thing and whilst I wasn’t keen to add to it, this felt crucial. Certainly if it had been good at its job, I’d have forgiven this ineffective monstrosity for any aesthetic shortcomings. 

Fortunately, our local chimney, woodburner and all things fire guru, Nico, knew what to do. Following extensive room volume calculations and burn capacity options he presented me with a list of suitable woodburner models from which to choose.  

Decision made (step one) and a Dovre 12KW woodburner ordered (step two). It was just a matter of time, approximately four months to delivery.

With the house in full renovation mode and no remnants of the old gas system remaining, the team would cluster round the temporary coffee station, steam curling off mugs and breath alike. It was chilly!

By February 2024, it was time for the great removal (step three). Nico arrived in full metalworker regalia, axel-grinder at the ready. It wasn’t possible to remove the enormous metal beast in one go, so it was dismantled piece by reluctant piece, sparks showering across the room. Popping on site at lunchtime, I was delighted by the transformation to lighter, airier room.

A four to… sixteen step project

Naively, I had expected it to be a simple case of one out, one in and was unprepared for the extent of additional steps now unveiled.

Fetchingly engrained soot marks, hidden behind the old monstrosity, stuck onto the stone. Sand-blasting (step four) was needed to rectify the damage. Worse, now with full access to the chimney, Nico discovered there was no flue lining, nor any provision for insulation panels, airflow or a fireproof plate. The old beast had hidden its shortcomings well! 

Cue a selection box of additional steps revealed itself:

All before the original step four and the new woodburner had even made an appearance 🤦‍♀

In September, the long-awaited day arrived, posing yet another logistical puzzle: how to move nearly a tonne of iron up the steps and into position? (Step 15) Our maître d’oeuvre persuaded two of the plumbing team to help and together, these four men, with some Heath Robinson style rolling, lifting and grunting managed to get the beautiful new woodburner finally in place – with no injured backs in the process.

Months after first striking that useless imposter of a metal beast, we stood before the real thing. Once connections were fixed, and probably more technical bits and bobs I’m blissfully unaware of, the fire was lit. Step 16, of four (!), complete 

Safe to say, she’s not only an enormous aesthetic improvement but also really kicks out the heat. In tandem with the new heat pump chauffage system this new woodburner ensures ‘Madame’s’ old stone bones guard more warmth during those Winter months 🔥

More Snapshots of the Domaine Les Plonges ‘journey’ every edition.

Possibly you found your way here via Instagram? @domainelesplonges? If so, an extra Bienvenue! You’ll already know I love a good visual. So here I’ll share others and a little more context behind the images…

Whether it’s discovering unique work by artists and designers from near and far or rummaging through vide greniers, brocantes, and hidden treasure troves, I’m always on the lookout! I’ll be sharing my favourite artists, designers and sourcing spots here 😄

Alarmed by the number of unpacked boxes still languishing in corners, I’ve set myself a gentle task of going through at least one box a week. That seems manageable, with the intention of not merely unpacking it but putting everything in the right place. 

As with every move, I’d already done a major clear-out when leaving Den Haag. Yet no matter how ruthless you are, it seems there are always a few things slipping through on the sentimental ticket! After two years out of sight and out of mind, most of these rediscoveries can be triaged fairly easily between charity shop, recycling or occasional keep. 

However, the most recent box was a goodie! In amongst framed photos and cards were a small stash of family artworks. Pieces I hadn’t seen since my mother’s side of the family road-tested the house in Summer 2022. Thirteen people, one puppy, a hodge-podge of furniture, no aircon on the top floor to alleviate the July heat, and, of course, what family event would be complete without a parrot?

That would be surprise guest, Antoine, my aunt and uncle’s parrot (see image at the end of the newsletter). Antoine’s antics have appeared in this newsletter before, here. A rescue from their time in Oman, he travels everywhere with them and is quite the character. Within no time he was strutting about the house and terrace, puffed up and very sure of his status. Romy’s initial alarm quickly gave way to dismissive toleration, and thankfully there were no canine-avian altercations.

As housewarming gifts, my family had kindly brought artwork for Les P but it went into storage during renovations. I’m still not quite at the stage of hanging pieces on walls, but unwrapping them felt like a gift all over again. With my mother’s wildlife drawings (exhibited in Edinburgh), Aunt N’s paintings (multiple exhibitions in London), Aunt A’s work on display in the V&A Museum (and various books), Aunt J’s sculptures (exhibited in Muscat and Paris), and pieces from my cousins who are all designers and artists in their own right – this was not exactly a junk find! Pictures below.

Tucked in on one side of the stack was a photograph of one of my favourite memories from that week.

During the week, Antoine had become rather protective of Charlotte, my cousin’s daughter, then aged five. Possibly harking back to his day’s as big protective parrot-brother to my uncle and aunt’s daughter in Oman, he quickly decided Charlotte was his new mini-human charge. He took to following her everywhere and seeing off anyone he deemed as getting too close. One afternoon, while she paused from swimming for a quick dash to the pool house loo, Antoine judged the pool terrace as now too crowded with far too many people (!) near his child. Antoine’s solution was to chase Charlotte back into the loo, squawking loudly, and then stand guard, effectively barricading her in with the spiders.

Found your dog happily munching the skirting boards? I did 🤦‍♀ Or your cat stuck up a curtain? Yup. Or your parrot chasing a small child into the loo? Haha.

A simple request this edition: do share your favourite pet related comedy moment! Preferably one that makes you cry with laughter when you share it with others : )

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If you’re interested in the tech I’m using for this, it’s Beehiiv. I did a LOT of research on platforms and I’m happy to explain why etc in more detail, just ask. They’ve also given me a partner link, and this gives anyone using the link a 30-day free trial and 20% off your first three months on any paid plan. Note, it’s an affiliate link and I may receive commission on any purchases made through it.