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Let’s begin : )

Alethea x

With a short spell of pain-induced grumpiness now firmly edited out of the timeline, things feel back on a more even keel.

It’s now three years since swapping life in NL and making a full-time move to FR. Time that somehow feels like both forever and to have zipped by in just the blink of an eye. From city centre to rural life, one second language to another, plenty of frustrating admin and life challenges, and a huge 18m renovation thrown into the mix – it’s been…hectic!

Good decision? Bien sûr. Easy? Not always. My plans for Les P have been clear from the day I first set eyes on it: a home and a business, a place for F&F, and a place to bring together creatives and their passions with ateliers and retreats. While delays over the past year have been frustrating, the business side is finally starting to take shape.

Meanwhile, small daily joys, great people and community, beautiful views all around and tons of project progress mean that my ‘wow, Romy, aren’t we lucky’ walk-chat remains a daily occurrence: )

A wildlife soundtrack

April has provided quite the floral display, but it’s not just the flora that’s been busy. It feels as though the wildlife soundtrack has been turned up a notch, a constant hum of cicadas chirruping away, plenty of deer barking (presumably protecting their young) and incredibly enthusiastic birdsong!

It seems I was late to the party, but I am now obsessed with the free Merlin Bird ID app by Cornell University. If you’re one of the few people who haven’t yet discovered it, then I recommend you download it quicksticks! It identifies the birds you’re hearing and is addictive in the best possible way!

Less welcome was the first snake sighting of the year, I know the couleuvre isn’t dangerous, but I remain firmly not a snake fan. (More on why in Artisans, fetes & serpents).

There have also been a couple of relocation conundrums. First up, a family of moles who have set up camp on one side of the terrace lawn. I was prepared to let it go, as they were on the less obvious side of the path. However, they have since expanded operations and are now busy turning the main lawn into a maze of tunnels too. So, pff, I’d like to relocate them to the field. How?

Last, but very much top of the wildlife priority list, is the increasingly bold sauvage cat targeting Nala. On two occasions it has brazenly scooted in through her microchip cat flap directly behind her, resulting in a high-pitched dramatic dining room skirmish followed by an injured Nala, hefty vet bill and, ever since, fearful cat.

The latest encounter added a new twist. Spotting what I thought was Nala from the kitchen, I went over for a cuddle only to find a much larger, rangier cat with similar colouring pacing the dining room, after a few warning hisses, it moved to calmly sitting on the table. Clearly, he’d followed her in, eaten all the kibble, and become stuck when trying to leave. When I opened the door, he simply sauntered out.

All behaviour which suggests this is not a totally feral cat, he seems too comfortable around humans and houses, but more likely an abandoned one. It’s not a viable ongoing situation and given the existing dog versus cat stand-off another feline is not an option. So, enquiries have been made on how to catch him, the plan then being to check for a chip and an owner 🤞, and if he has neither then he’ll head to the Société Protectrice des Animaux for rehoming.

Clear blue skies have given way to big storms - and finally, some much-needed rain.

Recommendations for two friends latest projects this edition, which I’m sure will be of interest to some of you:

Need a peaceful rural retreat? There’s still some early Summer availability for La Petite Maison in May and June – some of the most beautiful months of the year here.

The Jardins Suspendu de Marqueyssac is probably my all-time favourite local place. I’ll happily join guests on outings there every single time. Furnished with an annual pass, a perfect gift from friends, Romy and I wander the gardens a few times each month and are somehow still discovering new routes, nooks and hidden corners. 

Set high above the limestone cliffs of the Dordogne Valley, the views from the gardens are incredible. However, for me, it’s the views within Marqueyssac and the complete madness of the gardens themselves that I adore most. 

The first wow moment arrives almost immediately with swathes of perfectly clipped box hedges rolling across the hillside in an undulating sea of green curves and circular shapes, with the chateau and valley layered behind. It feels a slightly surreal, magical place and the surprises continue throughout the gardens – hidden pathways, dramatic viewpoints, follies, modern sculptures and twists appearing around every corner.    

The gardens are maintained by six full-time gardeners, who you’ll often spot abseiling down the cliffside to trim the hedges clinging to the rock face below. I once saw an advert for a new gardener: must be ok with heights! 

There’s something wonderfully eccentric and magical about Marqueyssac. Alongside the extraordinary landscaping you’ll find peacocks strutting about, an excellent bookshop, restaurant and creperie, aerial playgrounds for kids, musical picnic evenings and unexpectedly, even a dinosaur skeleton! 

Random fact: the chateau roof weighs around 500 tonnes, made with traditional limestone lauze roofing - one of the region’s signature architectural features. 

In my opinion, it’s an absolute must-see if you’re ever in the area. 

Part of a new collection of A&A Local favourites – places or activities that either sit slightly under the radar or are so consistently good that they stand out from the tourist trail.

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As someone who’s categorically pro bicycles both as a form of transport and for leisure purposes, and who still misses the convenience of cycling everywhere in The Hague, it comes as something of a surprise to find myself mildly annoyed by (some of) them here.

On the narrow, winding little roads, the annual reappearance of tourist cyclists does make driving a tad stressful. 

Unlike year-round local cyclists, tourists tend to favour muted clothing, no hi-vis or lights, and may as well be wearing invisibility cloaks as they drift in and out of dappled light along tree lined lanes. You turn a corner, then have to screech to a halt before taking out a group of cyclists spanning the width of the road. Another bend, more braking, as you come face to face with an overtaking car, frustrated by a gaggle of cyclists and taking a punt, on your side of the road.

All of which makes sitting in a caravan of cars creeping along at snail’s pace behind a peloton of Tour de France wannabees, who have no intention of pulling over for a moment, feel like the safer option.

I’ve noticed these cyclists become considerably more prevalent in the weeks either side of the Tour de France, with small packs of MAMILs (middle aged men in lycra) trailing long lines of cars on every lane.

This year, the eighth leg of the Tour de France passes not far from here, so I’m expecting the MAMIL quotient to be even higher. 

And on the lycra… perfectly fine on the bike. Acceptable, understood. Having worn padded lycra cycling shorts myself during a London to Paris charity bike ride years ago, I get it. However, what’s less clear to me is the continued wearing of lycra cycling gear in offices, restaurants, and anywhere not near a bike. There’s a similar level of self-awareness here to the naked lungers in gym changing rooms.

One former client of mine received so many complaints about employees strutting through the office still fully kitted out in their lycra-clad glory, then happily standing by, chatting and leaning over desks, that a very direct memo had to be issued.

Another memorable MAMIL-led lycra ban was at Hotel des Indes in The Hague. Renowned for its elegant breakfast buffet set in beautiful surroundings, it draws both hotel guests and visitors. Unfortunately, the low, traditional chairs provided guests with rather confronting eye-level anatomical views, before their coffee. A policy change swiftly followed, much to the chagrin of the regular cycling tour groups.

Missing the daily ease of cycling in The Hague, one sunny day here nearly three years ago I decided it would be a good idea for the puppy, Digby, to get accustomed to a hondenfietskar – a dog trailer attached to the bike. I set off down the lane by Les P, puppy installed behind me, Romy trotting alongside as she had done countless times in NL. 

All went perfectly for approximately ten seconds.

The puppy freaked out as we gathered speed and attempted to leap out of the trailer, toppling the whole caboodle, bike, trailer and rider, into an undignified heap. Digby shot off in one direction, Romy in another, and I was left spawled across the lane.

Neither dog went far, so when (inevitably) a tractor appeared seconds later, the farmer kindly stopped and helped me gather bike, trailer and dogs. Since this farmer had previously intervened in a kicking match with an insubordinate strimmer, I doubt he was surprised by the scene in front of him! 🤦‍♀

My advice to guests wishing to cycle here is to head down to the extensive cycling network alongside the rivers (Ceou and Dordogne). It’s incredibly scenic, mostly flat and far safer than risking accidents on the winding roads.

More Snapshots of the Domaine Les Plonges ‘journey’ next edition.

Possibly you found your way here via Instagram? @domainelesplonges? If so, an extra Bienvenue! You’ll already know I love a good visual…

If you’re interested in the tech I’m using for this, it’s Beehiiv. I did a LOT of research on platforms and I’m happy to explain why etc in more detail, just ask. They’ve also given me a partner link, and this gives anyone using the link a 30-day free trial and 20% off your first three months on any paid plan. Note, it’s an affiliate link and I may receive commission on any purchases made through it.

Whichever way you subscribe, your support and readership is thoroughly appreciated and I’m delighted to have you along for the adventure! 💛